Hayppy that now I have more facts to put in my decision. What I can say is that, in general, eyepiece characteristics are inherent to the eyepiece. Soon you’ll be a newbie no more, Leroy my friend. Any 1.25″ eyepiece will work with the BH Zoom 2″ adapter. Easy to understand, especially for us beginners. I think I’d really enjoy a zoom for all the reasons you mention, But I’m having a difficult time assessing how much weight to put on the field of view of given eyepieces. In order to help you narrow down your choices, we’ve created a short guide that can help you to figure out what the best viable option is. Great article! In our example, we targeted 200X as the top magnification. Do you suggest upgrading eyepieces? In general terms, the higher the AFOV number the more the eyepiece will cost. They will set you up for success, I promise you that! Not perfect to the edge but better than the Bresser, in my opinion. https://telescopicwatch.com/?s=barlow, Best of luck with your new telescope. If we combine a Barlow with an 8-24 mm zoom eyepiece we have an amazing range. Are there any good low-cost 2” EPS out there? Let me start by saying this list is made for the generic observer. They also offer more eye relief than Plossls at the shorter focal lengths. In most cases, these are eyepieces that are focused on wider AFOV or better correction for low focal ratio scopes. My other eyepieces, ES and Meade 82 degree, stayed in the eyepiece case most of the time. This gives us more flexibility at the low end of the magnification range. In this case, I am going to define this by focuser and eyepiece size. Eyepieces for an 8 in. Remember that visual and AP have very different requirements, so plan on at least two different optical tubes. Why not go back to the people who sold you the scope and get their help. But with 2 eyepieces and a Barlow, you have the full effective range of your telescope. We often end up spending more on eyepieces than we did on the telescope. This is your Lexus, Acura, and Infinity types that offer more features, better build and a bit more polish. Usually, you'll want to start with low power (i.e., long eyepiece focal length, such as 25 mm or 30 mm) to get the object in the field of view of the telescope. Does this sound like something you would recommend based on the telescope I have? Put the zoom in the Barlow for the high range. Focus on the magnifications rather than the mm of the eyepieces. If your focuser/diagonal will accept 2” eyepieces then I will suggest you get one or two 2” eyepieces for your low power wide view eyepieces. https://telescopicwatch.com/best-telescope-mounts-for-astrophotography/, Then you look at the optical tubes. I decided to jump in with both feet and get an Orion ED80 (600mm f7.5 with a 2” focuser, So that I can move into astrophotography down the road. As to a more immersive experience, yes, I would say a wider FOV does provide a more immersive experience. Here we have very good eyepieces with some extra features. thanks for all your help. Hi, I have recently bought a Orion XT8 and am trying to work out which eyepieces to add to what is provided with the scope. To achieve the maximum of 200X (2X the aperture of 100 mm) we solve for the focal length. Our previous exchange convinced me to start out with an 80mm refractor. but the meat of the article is about understanding the considerations and specifications to know when selecting eyepieces. This is where the cheap eyepiece will frequently fail to deliver a good image, around the edges. The result in magnification is the same and the eye relief associated with the eyepiece is retained or, in some cases, actually lengthened a bit. There are many more designs that are associated with specific brands, but the ones above are designs that are produced by many companies in one form or another. 1. for 8" Dobsonian. A Barlow lens can save you money and add flexibility. We can see that 2” eyepieces have an advantage over 1.25” eyepieces when designers are making wide view eyepieces. This guide will help make your decision process a little easier. The nice thing about eyepieces is that they usually last a lifetime if you take care of them, so it’s often worth it to get a few nice eyepieces to supplement your telescope. I am considering buying another eyepiece, maybe 6mm, and a Barlow, maybe 2x, to give me a wider and higher range of magnification. All Rights Reserved. Many thanks, Sophie. A Barlow lens is a nice upgrade to eyepiece collections. Over time you may wish to add a specialty eyepiece here or there but I would not make that a priority until you have filled out your magnification range. You will need at the very least 200mm and even then we are talking a faint smudge visible. Divide the aperature of the XT 10 (250mm) by 40, you get an exit pupil of 6.25mm. The bottom line is that it is best to have several magnification choices so you can optimize the view. And, the quality of the eyepiece clearly comes into play here. Your advice for ultra short forcal length eyepieces is also reversed, and their use is not tied to telescope design as you described. I want these as possible as wide, magnification and astrophotography purpose. Eyepiece focal lengths are selected by telescope f/ratio, not by telescope focal length. They are just OK, but I don’t recommend them, especially in a low focal ratio scope. If you want to buy him $200 eyepieces so he can grow into them, that works. An eyepiece's true field of view is the angle of sky seen through the eyepiece when it's attached to the telescope. Suggesting an F6 scope becomes an F18 would also imply things like reduced CA in a refractor. Note that we also gained a 16 mm magnification at no additional cost. I also have a pretty good barlow. As you age, the maximum pupil diameter decreases. This can be very helpful for star hopping. They are useable, but your eye will be extremely close to the top lens glass. InternetSales@optcorp.com, 800-483-6287 Any suggestions as to what brands of eyepieces are best? As a newbie, It answered a lot of questions I had about eyepieces. 8.8 = 240 = .34 These are the workhorse eyepieces of today. I would like to know what is best for a 7 year old that would be getting his first telescope. You could also try a higher power eyepiece — on nights with good seeing, an eyepiece with 5mm focal length will provide twice the magnification that the 10mm does. It is all about your budget, your goals, and your objectives, as outlined in the article. A great mid-range magnification for all focal lengths and helps resolve globular clusters, galaxy details, and spot planetary nebulae. Ed is a member of the Astronomical Society of Long Island, ASLI. Then you might want to try a slightly higher-power (shorter focal length, maybe 18 mm or 15 mm) eyepiece and see if the view looks any better. The more light that is gathered the more magnification that can be applied to the image, up to limits that are imposed by the atmosphere. The optical elements of eyepieces allow you to focus light collected by a telescope, so you can observe a sharp view of the object or area where the telescope is pointing. Sometimes people think the best approach is to put your eye right up to the eyepiece, like directly on it. Not every new astronomer knows exactly where to start when buying a telescope for the first time. I took notes and now can shop with confidence Wonder what the difference between astrophotography monochrome and color cameras are? You have to decide how fussy you are about the edges and what your budget can tolerate. This will give you a lower power and a medium to high power eyepiece, depending on the focal length of your scope. How does that field of view impact the viewing experience? Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. If we look at the range I provided above, we see that we could replace several eyepieces with one zoom. Consider the focal length of your telescope, or telescopes, to make sure the eyepiece will provide an appropriate magnification to suit your needs. Note that as we get into the higher magnifications the millimeter jumps between eyepieces focal lengths gets smaller. Typically a Barlow does not add or subtract from this, but there again we have bad Barlows and Good Barlows.
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